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Archive for the ‘Kawasaki’ Category

kawasaki klx250r repair TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty:
Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Balancer bearing seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Compression release cam spring broken (K.A.C.R.)
Compression release cam sticks close (K.A.C.R.)
No fuel flow:
No fuel in fuel tank
Fuel tap turned off
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Float valve clogged
Engine flooded:
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high
Float valve worn or stuck open
Starting technique faulty (When flooded, crank the
engine with the throttle fully opened to allow
more air to reach the engine.)
No spark; spark weak:
Ignition switch not on (KLX250E)
Engine stop switch turned off
Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral
(KLX250E)
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
CDI unit trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Ignition coil resistor open
Flywheel magneto damaged
Ignition or engine stop switch shorted
Neutral switch trouble (KLX250E)
Interlock diode unit trouble (KLX250E)
Wiring shorted or open
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Pilot screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted
Pilot jet, or air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Starter jet clogged
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Compression release cam (K.A.C.R.) sticks open
(Engine stalls when moving off).
Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
CDI unit trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Flywheel magneto damaged
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
Pilot screw maladjusted
Pilot jet, or air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct loose
Starter plunger stuck open
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too
low
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Carburetor holder loose
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Compression release cam (K.A.C.R.) sticks open
(Engine stalls when moving off)
Other:
CDI unit trouble
Carburetor vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brakes dragging
Over heating
Clutch slipping
Throttle valve does not open fully
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, damaged, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring damaged
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
CDI unit trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Exciter coil shorted or open
Ignition coil trouble
Flywheel magneto damaged
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Jet needle or needle jet worn
Air jet clogged
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too
low
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct loose
Starter plunger stuck open
Fuel to carburetor insufficient
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Carburetor holder loose
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Compression release cam (K.A.C.R.) sticks open
(Engine stalls when moving off)
Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
CDI unit trouble
Miscellaneous:
Throttle valve won’t fully open
Carburetor vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly
Brakes dragging
Clutch slipping
Overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Balancer mechanism malfunctioning
Drive train trouble
Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged
Overheating:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
CDI unit trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Brakes dragging
Lubrication inadequate:
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Coolant temperature warning light incorrect
Coolant temperature warning light broken
(KLX250E)
Water temperature sensor broken (KLX250E)
Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Cooling system component incorrect
Radiator clogged
Thermostat trouble (KLX250E)
Radiator cap trouble
Thermostatic fan switch trouble (KLX250E)
Fan relay trouble (KLX250E)
Fan motor broken (KLX250E)
Fan blade damaged (KLX250E)
Water pump not rotating
Water pump impeller damaged
Over Cooling
Cooling system component incorrect:
Thermostatic fan switch trouble(KLX250E)
Thermostat trouble (KLX250E)
Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
No clutch lever play
Clutch cable maladjusted
Clutch inner cable catching

Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch lever play excessive.
Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub nut loose
Clutch hub spline damaged
Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Gear positioning lever binding
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken
Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog recesses worn
Shift drum groove worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift fork pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear spiines worn
Overshifts:
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
CDI unit trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating
Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn
Valve noise:
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearings worn
Valve lifter worn
Other noise:
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mounts loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Magneto flywheel loose
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chains, sprockets, guides worn
Balancer gear worn or chipped
Balancer position maladjusted
Balancer mechanism springs weak or broken
Balancer bearings worn
Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Clutch rubber damper weak or damaged
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear/primary gear worn
Metal chip jammed in clutch housing gear teeth
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gears worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient
Drive chain noise:
Drive chain adjusted improperly
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket(s) worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise:
Shock absorber damaged
Disc brake noise:
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble
Master cylinder damaged
Other noise:
Brackets, nuts, bolts, etc. not properly mounted or
tightened
Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
White smoke:
Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:
Air cleaner clogged
Main jet too large or fallen off
Starter plunger stuck open
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high
Brown smoke:
Main jet too small
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:
Handlebar hard to turn:
Cable routing incorrect
Hose routing incorrect
Wiring routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Steering stem bearing race dented or worn
Steering stem lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:
Tire worn
Swingarm sleeve or needle bearing damaged
Rim warped, or not balanced
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar clamp loose
Steering stem head nut loose
Handlebar pulls to one side:
Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
Steering maladjusted
Steering stem bent
Front fork leg bent
Right and left front fork oil level uneven
Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Front fork damper adjustment too hard (Upside
down type)
Front fork leg bent
Tire air pressure too high
Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
(Too soft)
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Front fork damper adjustment too soft (Upside
down type)
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking
Rear shock absorber adjustment too soft
Tire air pressure too low
Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn

Brake fluid leakage
Disc warped
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged in master
cylinder
Master cylinder scratched inside

kawasaki njinja ZX-10R TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

1. Troubleshooting the DFI System

The warning indicator light (LED) [A] is used for the FI indicator, immobilizer indicator (immobilizer models) and oil pressure warning indicator.

Outline

When a problem occurs with DFI system, the warning indicator light (LED) [A] and FI warning symbol [B] blinks to alert the rider. In addition, the condition of the problem is stored in the memory of the ECU. For models eqquipped with an immobilizer system, the warning indicator light (LED) and immobilizer warning symbol [C] blinks, when a problem occurs in the system.

With the engine stopped and turned in the self-diagnosis mode, the service code [A] is displayed on the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) by the number of two digits.

When the service code [A] is displayed, for first ask the rider about the conditions [B] of trouble, and then start to determine the cause of problem. As a pre-diagnosis inspection, check the ECU for ground and power supply, the fuel line for no fuel leaks, and for correct pressure. The pre-diagnosis items are not indicated by the warning indicator light (LED) and FI warning symbol. Don’t rely solely on the DFI self-diagnosis function, use common sense.

Even when the DFI system is operating normally, the warning indicator light (LED) and FI warning symbol may blink under strong electrical interference. Additional mea-sures are not required. Turn the ignition switch OFF to stop the indicator light and symbol.

If the warning indicator light (LED) and FI warning symbol of the motorcycle brought in for repair still blinks, check the service code.When the repair has been done, the FI warning symbol goes off. But the service codes stored in memory of the ECU are not erased to preserve the problem history. The problem history can be referred using the KDS (Kawasaki Diagnostic System) when solving unstable problems

Much of the DFI system troubleshooting work consists of confirming continuity of the wiring. The DFI parts are assembled and adjusted with precision, and it is impossible to disassemble or repair them. •When checking the DFI parts, use a digital meter which can be read two decimal place voltage or resistance. ○The DFI part connectors have seals, including the ECU. When measuring the input or output voltage with the connector joined, use the needle adapter set. Insert the needle adapter inside the seal until the needle adapter reaches the terminal. Special Tool – Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

After measurement, remove the needle adapters and ap-ply silicone sealant to the seals [A] of the connector [B] for waterproofing.

Sealant – Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120 -Seals of Connector

Always check battery condition before replacing the DFI parts. A fully charged battery is a must for conducting accurate tests of the DFI system.

Read the rest of this entry »

Kawasaki FD680V,FD731V Troubleshooting guide

1. Engine Troubleshooting Guide

If the engine malfunctions, check if the way the engine is used is correct. If engine malfunctions even if engine is used correctly, systematically carry out troubleshooting starting with simple points. This chart describes typical troubleshooting procedures. Do not unnecessarily disassemble carburetor, magneto or engine unless it has been found to be the cause of malfunctioning.

engine bard to start

engine loss power

engine runs erratically

engine malfunctions at high speed

engine malfunctions at low speed

fuel consumption is excessive

oil consumption is excessive

engine backfires

engine knocks

coolant leakage

Download

2. Starter Motor Troubleshooting Guide

1. Disconnect spark plug cap, and ground the cap terminal.

2. Turn engine switch to “START” position and check condition.

starter does not rotate

starter rotates but slow

starter rotates but can not crank engine

starter does not stop in engine switch”off”

Download

 

 

kawasaki VULCAN 1600 CLASSIC VN1600 CLASSIC wiring diagram pdf download

kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R motorcycle  FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) Wiring Diagram Download

  • DFI Wiring Diagram
  • Wiring Diagram (United States and Canada)
  • Wiring Diagram (Australia)
  • Wiring Diagram (Other than United States, Canada and Australia)

Download Now

The relevant manuals:

 

 

Kawasaki ninja 650R ER-6F ABS ER-6f FUEL SYSTEM Wiring Diagram pdf manual

Kawasaki ninja 650R ER-6F ABS ER-6f FUEL SYSTEM  Wiring Diagram Download

  • FUEL SYSTEM (DFI DFI System Wiring Diagram

  • ABS System Wiring Diagram Anti-Lock Brake System ABS System Wiring Diagram
  • Wiring Diagram (Europe, Korea, Hong Kong and Kuwait)
  • Wiring Diagram (United States, Canada, New Zealand and Malaysia)
  • Wiring Diagram (Australia and South Africa)
  • Wiring Diagram (EX650B Models)

Download Now

The relevant manuals:

2006 KAWASAKI NINJIA650 ER-6F ABS SERVICE WORKSHOP REPAIR MANUAL-PDF DOWNLOAD

 

2009 Kawasaki KLX250S KLX250SF Servcie Repair Manual pdf

If you’re asking“Where can I  get a 2009 KLX250S KLX250SF manual?”

This is the most complete Service Repair Manual for the 2009 Kawasaki KLX250S KLX250SF Servcie Repair Manual Download ever compiled by mankind. This DOWNLOAD contains of high quality diagrams and instructions on how to service and repair your motorcycle from the front bumper to the rear.

INSTANT DOWNLOAD -Size: 21.1854 MB)>>

 

Models Covers: 

2009 Kawasaki KLX250T9F
2009 Kawasaki KLX250W9F

This Manual Covers: 

General Information
Periodic Maintenance
Fuel System
Cooling System
Engine Top End
Engine Right Side
Engine Lubrication System
Engine Removal/Installation
Crankshaft/Transmission
Wheels/Tires
Final Drive
Brakes
Suspension
Steering
Frame
Electrical System
Appendix

Related files:

1996 to 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 VN800 Service Repair Manual

2000-2011 Kawasaki KX65  Motorcycle Servcie Repair Manual

2000-2008 Kawasaki VN1500 Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Motorcycle Workshop Service Repair Manual

2009-2010 Kawasaki Teryx 750 FI 4×4 LE Sport KRF750RAF ATV Factory Service Repair Manual

 

Related questions:

Questions from the forum:

I merely purchased my own initial KLX250. It’s really a 2007 type.

For the Kawasaki site they give: 1) Foundation Support Information KLX250D/300A, $59. 89; 2) Support Information Supplement KLX250H, $35. 89; 3) Owner’s Information KLX250H7F, $15. 89; Which often will i dependence on general maintenance? I need the particular report backup, not a cd-rom or even digital video disc.

Additionally, precisely what is the particular big difference relating to the KLX250S, 250D, 250H, 250H7F as well as the LX250H? Are usually they will the same thing? What number of various KLX250′s are available?

Just about any information could well be appreciated. Appreciate it.

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